Simon Perry Re-works His Shocks And
Adds A Rear Sway Bar
These are modifications I
have done largely from the insight of the Galeforce Zephyrs website articles on
these subjects, and then adapted them as I saw fit and with the parts or
materials I had readily available or was able to pick up at swaps.
I should point out that I am
"self taught" and I am learning as I go largely from my own instincts
but also by asking the odd question of those who I think have more skills than
myself in this area. I also point out that I have made some mistakes that I
would not repeat, and if I did it again I would do some of the things a bit
differently, or improve them. No I am not a welder, I have never being trained
and yes I still need some practice, but I am prepared to have a crack myself.
My car is a 1958 Mk2
Highline, running standard motor, manual gearbox and diff. I believe the motor
has had some work, and performs very well. The car is now roadworthy and
registered and as I learnt today these mods are legal in Qld and do not require
a mod plate.
You can see from photo one:
that I have fitted heavy duty Ute rear springs to the sedan, (thanks to John
Martin).
Above shows the bottom shock
mount turned out of a length of solid circular steel, turned down to fit into
the shock, and threaded. The shocks were a bargain swap meet pick up at $8 for
the pair.
Above is a rear view and
shows how I have attached the bottom mount and braced it. The sway bar mount
can also be seen on the axle housing.
Above the rear oil shocks
have been removed but brackets have been left in place. Brackets have been made
for the front sway bar attachment and the chassis has been drilled oversize
from one side to insert a steel tube to act as a crush tube when the bolts are
tightened.
Above. Front sway bar mount
is made from plate bent in L shape and then drilled for attaching to chassis
and also to accommodate the rubber bushes at the bottom. Note the top shock
mount also tuned out of larger circular steel and welded a plate then on to the
original bracket.
Above, the front of the sway
bar is secured with a high tensile bolt, rubber bushes (would normally use
urethane but had a set of new rubber ones) and a very small spacer tube in the
middle. Note how the front of the sway bar clears the inside of the spring. I
picked up this sway bar at a swap; it is a V8 HQ rear sway bar and was free.
You get some good deals as people are packing up to go home. I had to cold bend
it slightly (LOL, still tough work) to get it to clear the springs, it does fit
in between the springs, but the eye on the front end did scrape on the edge of
the spring.
Above, The top mount can be
seen here, with nylock nut. Note I welded the circular steel to the plate
"off" the car but welded the plate to the shock bracket
"on" the car, and would remove this bracket when welding to get a
better job in future.
Above. Rear sway bar sitting unloaded.
Above. U-bolt over axle housing and
attached to steel plate. Urethane bush holder bolted to steel plate to suit.
Above, RHS showing the
bottom shock mount, welded to leaf spring base plate. Note the front of the
sway bar is leaning down slightly. I have debated removing the spacer between
the bushes, then cutting the thread a bit longer on the bolt and cutting the
end off the bolt to allow a fit below the chassis rail, but it all seems to
work fine at present.
Above, RHS from a different angle.
Above, Can you spot my deliberate mistake (Not).
Above, RHS top shock mount.
The top and bottom turned shock mounts were turned down by a friend, to my
dimensions, before I threaded them.
I hope these photos will
inspire others to put forward their tips to keeping our cars on the road.
I have just had seatbelts
installed and certified (mod plate required) and will endeavour to put a few
photos on soon.
Many thanks Simon