Safe Engine Removal For A MKll
By Syd Handisides
(Some
of these tips may be applied to other models.)
Whether
you are experienced or not at swapping engines out, I am sure there is
something to pick up from Syd's notes below, added to with his excellent
photos. Karl.
1: Steam clean the engine bay if you can,
before starting, at your local service station. Drain the oil from the
motor and drain the radiator before removing it as well as draining the block,
if the block tap won't flow, try inserting a piece of wire into it or
knock out a frost plug. Remove the bell housing to engine bolts, starter
motor and the alloy bell housing inspection cover from underneath. Remove
both intake and exhaust manifolds, plus all wiring (mark the connections for
where they go), generator, generator mounting bracket, heater hoses, water
pump, front crank pulley, oil filter, distributor cap, leads & coil and the
fuel line. It's not necessary to remove the fuel pump, though if not, you
need to watch it doesn't get caught on the light wiring harness.
2: Use a suitable strong chain long enough to
go from the engine mount across the top of the engine down to the other engine
mount. Remove the upper front engine mount to block bolt on each side and bolt
ends of chain to these bolt holes using a longer, high tensile, bolt. Make sure
the bolt head is big enough so that the chain link can't slip off it or use a
large heavy washer. Make sure that these bolts are done up tight, best if the
bolt is long enough to bottom out in the threaded hole without clamping the
chain (ie chain is free to swivel on bolt) Bolt must be tight, or damage to the
thread in the block may occur, or possibly even a cracked thread boss.
3: Position the lifting device over the center
of the engine and hook the engine chain onto it. The engine chain needs to
be passed between the center manifold studs on LHS of block and on RHS. I
fit longer bolts to the coil mount holes and pass the chain between them.
This ensures initial horizontal lift.
4: Note that the engine crane I use is fitted
with a swivel mounted snig hook. The swivel allows the engine to be rotated
easily left to right and the snig hook locks onto the chain bolted to the
engine so it can't slip sideways. (This snig hook
is critical to avoid possible damage or injury if chain slips through normal
hook). Note also that I fit a safety chain from crane hook to the
rear of block. The reason for this is that the lifting points on the block
are below the center of gravity, so if the engine chain is too long, it's
possible for the engine to flip over backwards when pulling it out. If you are
using an endless chain, make sure you have a very secure overhead beam to mount
it too. Sometimes putting on two bare rims on the front of the car, lowers the
car, allowing for more working room over the front to pull the motor over
the car, yet still letting you roll the car away from the work area (refer
to step 11).
5: Lift the engine just enough to take weight
off the mounts, then remove the 4 bolts holding mounts to the cross member,
then remove mounts from the engine plate.
6:
Place a jack or stand under the
front of the gearbox.
7:
Lift engine, tilting it
slightly backwards, tilt the front of the oil pan until it just
clears the bottom bar of the radiator support panel and slide it forwards to
disengage the gearbox shaft from the clutch, making sure the front of the
gearbox is supported by the jack or stand.
8:
Holding the engine forwards so
it stays clear of the transmission, lower it so the oil pan sits on the cross
member and the lower crossbar of the radiator support panel. (Either
place a piece of heavy rubber sheet on the support panel crossbar to protect
the paint or, if a suitable jack or stand is available, put it on the
floor between the cross member and support panel, set at the right height
to rest the oil pan on, clear of the support panel) Let all the weight off the
chain so the chain can be released from between the manifold studs LHS and the
coil bolts RHS
9:
Lift the engine again. By using
the two upper front engine mount bolt holes as the lifting points the engine,
with clutch and flywheel fitted, naturally hangs at just the right angle to
remove it.
10:
From here on it's much easier
with 2 people, one operating the crane, the other guiding the engine. As the
engine is lifted it needs to be held across to the RHS and then rotated so that
front of crank is pointing at the RF corner of the engine bay. A little
sideways and rotational jiggling is required as it's lifted, to work it around
the accelerator arm, the wiring harness, radiator support panel lip and
suspension tower brace but can be done with no damage to paint or panels or
other parts.
11:
Using a mobile engine crane
allows the engine to be taken away from the car but if a fixed point over head
gantry is used, car will need to be moved from under engine, in this case make
sure the trans is supported before removing the jack or the stand.
12:
Now is a good time for a tidy
up and to maybe get in that engine bay and give it a cut and polish or even a
few spray cans of matt black or your favourite colour, before reinstalling
that fresh motor.
Disclaimer:
The advice and guidelines given in these articles are given in good faith.
The owners and managers of the Galeforce Zephyr site will take no
responsibility for any injuries or loss sustained while carrying out the
described tasks and procedures or any consequences arising. Please read
the Safety First
Article