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My Mklll V8 Part 4

 

 

Karl Schluter.

 

Well the part collecting continues, I hope to be back working on the car near the end of the year-all going well!

I had mentioned I had brought two different rev counters in my Part 3 story, well a NZ Auction site tempted me with the below VDO model. It’s a 5” model and can be mounted on a column or in the dash.

(I have a 5” Smiths Speedo to match it if I go into remodeling the dash complete with smiths 2” gauges etc).

I always liked the MklV Zodiac style dash! 

Anyway the VDO gauge records for up to 90 minutes of engine time and you can read tire spin or clutch slip with this. Below the “RPMX1000” is a led screen that reads time at 1/3 speed (or normal time) with the tacho reading the run you have just driven! The built in shift light (you can wire an outside one too) can be programmed to flash at different rpm per EACH gear change too (yes I never had enough toys as a kid!). The Keypad can be remotely mounted as well. Price?

I got in new in a sealed packet for $120NZ. A look at the NZ shops has them new at $850 NZ…

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am welding a bung into one exhaust collector while they are out to insert a sender to read the air/fuel ratio with the below Auto meter C2 gauge. It might be mounted off the interior side pillar as I got an alloy-mounting cup with it.

 

I use to be a big fan of reusable K&N air cleaners however more and more people are having negative results with poor filtering vs. the great flow. I am therefore going over to an Australian made Uni filter. It’s multi layered and I have installed it in a Moroso alloy base and cover which are contoured for better flow with the carburetor I run (Holley 600 Double pumper). I may have to remake my strut tower braces (see photos “My Mklll V8 Pt 1) to clear the 14“x3“ air cleaner and bonnet room will be tight as I run a tall intake (Weiand Stealth).

I intend to make a Nascar plenum air box that draws air from the lower windscreen area to the air cleaner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I will spray the gold air cleaner alloy grey to match other alloy engine bay items and may remove the “Ford Racing” alloy rocker covers for painted alloy grey factory “Ford” ones to get a look of a late 60’s race car engine?

Below is a Baffled Moroso oil catch can I have that will act as an extra engine vent at high engine rpm. I intend to plumb it into the Fuel pump block off plate (Member Paul Garton makes these-click FAQ/Parts).

 

 

 

 

I run a remote oil supply made by Moroso called an “Accumulator 2” that pre oils the engine and stops the engine sucking air instead of oil under cornering (see Pt 1). However I wanted to increase sump oil capacity so when the below pre 65 Ford Falcon sump with oil pump pick up tube came up I grabbed it for $75 NZ. It’s modeled off Milodon’s Cobra T sump and is fitted with 4 trap doors as well. The then bought top half of the sump had been damaged but I had a spare sump that was also damaged so the two were welded together with the grateful help of Galeforce member James (Zephyrheaven). The below picture is a mock up of the two half’s.

 

 

 

 

 

As some of you will know I love tinkering with Ignition systems (view the sites articles). I will be running a Ford Duraspark 11 magnetic distributor to a Mallory Hyfire digital 6AL box with a Promaster 29440 coil. Now I am also going to run a redundant ignition using a GM HEI or such like basic inductive module with a good coil. Both ignition coils link up to the below pictured MSD 8210 coil selector. Then from the steering wheel a flick of a toggle switch will swap from the Mallory CDI system to a back up inductive system! Or they can be both run at the same time. This set up is common from airplanes to Nascar racing.

 

 

 

I got a good deal on the below Tilton prop valve. This allows 7 levels of adjustment to delay the coming in of the rear brakes. I find my rears lock a bit easy (stock/fresh Mklll shoes but adjusted well). Not sure yet on whether to mount this yet however.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I brought one of the then new G-Tech pro meters to measure HP and 1/4-mile times plus my brake mods vs. stock Mklll brakes. Should be fun to test different engine set ups with as the “seat of the pants” can fool you!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

As mentioned in Pt 3 the bucket seats I had left a lot of side support etc to be desired! So Momo Corse Rookie/Start seats are going in. The below RJS 5 point belts will go in too. Not sure how much use they will get but hey…

 

In my local town I won at auction the below 16 gallon fuel cell. It’s 3 years old and fits in the stock Mklll fuel tank “hole” (I think it’s 25”x17”x9”). I have to get a sender for it (now located) to match my fuel gauge.

The Fuel cell came about after my fear of a split fuel tank. Years ago the car was rear-ended and the hit bent the fuel filler tube behind the number plate up. Anymore and it would have been torn off the tank body and boom!. Newer cars have a rubber hose section here by later design laws.

Anyway the fuel cell was at a great price ($120 NZ) and came complete with the cap and vent plus sound foam inside. The foams use is twofold, one to baffle the tank from fuel slosh and two, to stop combustion by taking up the dead air space and also slowing the release of fuel if a split/tear happened. Because the foam takes up most of the tank insides (but only displaces 3% of fuel) a lever fuel type gauge won’t work hence you need a “tube” type.

The tank is a Polylinked plastic and will be enclosed in a metal can inside the stock un-cut floor. I have seen Rodders etc mount these tanks upright on top of the floor but I don’t want to do that. For extra safety I will redo the alloy firewall I made up behind the rear seat and seal the boot area with fuel cell and battery box (vented outside the car) sealed off completely.

 

 

Well that’s me for now, I still have a small amount of car parts to sell (hopefully for a profit!!!) to finance the installation of lead free seats in the last Windsor head and then machine work for accepting the screw in rocker studs in both 351 Windsor heads.

I need to sit down and work out a build program of how to attack the different ends of the car. A read through the sites stories from our members is sure to guide me!

Karl-Site manager (LowZep)

 

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