Pictures and
information by Karl Schluter. Copyright.
Stage 4
The
aftermarket (MSD, Mallory, Jacob and Crane etc) supply spark boxes that are
either Inductive or CDI systems, MSD do one that’s both. Going to more
expensive boxes will get you a built in rev limiter (handy for racing or as a
safety device etc) plus other useful features. Start retards are available for
high compression as well. Not all are multi spark boxes. Pertronix have one
that you can adjust the firing of the second spark for best results.
The
companies from the US are all very close with digital being the way things are
going over the older analogue type systems. These boxes can run with the stock
points just like the kitset systems with the same benefits but are more
expensive, you get what you pay for. Most of these boxes can be run with
the converted Lucas distributor or donor distributors mentioned in
our previous articles. Check with the company’s web site and tell them
the donor models distributor or donor parts.
Beware of
buying a second hand module/spark box as they can be damaged like all
electronic devices. Most of these aftermarket CDI boxes prefer the use of a
basic timing light instead of a “Dial back” timing light when setting timing.
The multi firing can confuse some timing lights.
Note: The
aftermarket Spark boxes by Crane, Mallory and MSD etc mentioned above will run
off Points, the Magnetic pick up and reluctor system (US, European, Australian
or some Japanese), or the optical system used in aftermarket kits. Not all
modules will run off Hall effect distributors, which are sometimes used, by car
companies and the aftermarket.
Handy tips for a long living ignition Module,
A few tips for factory Modules and aftermarket
Amplifiers/boxes:
·
1, Rubber mount the box if its not meant to be on a heat sink like a
factory module (eg GM HEI module).
·
2, Mount the box so air can move over it to cool it. NOT in a closed
glove box!
·
3, Mount the box/module so water cannot collect inside it. Do not
silicone seal the box to anything.
·
4, For CDI and other high power systems, a capacitor wired in parallel
off the two main battery wires to the box will add years to it, (Specs -16VDC
20v max surge, 10 amp. 26kufd, 5000mf or bigger) .
·
5,
Don’t use a Battery master cut off switch on the earth side- as on switching
off, the spark box can try to arc to earth inside!
·
6. For MSD, Mallory and Crane multi spark boxes, most companies prefer
you wire the main power and earth to the battery direct-not the starter
solenoid or alternator or a chassis point, this helps prevent spikes and
surges, as will running a starter and alternator in top condition. Check wiring
to the battery as per their instructions.
·
7,Voltage between the keyed + wire and the positive battery wire on the
above systems should be within 2 volts of each other for a long lasting
module-if its not, check out why.
·
8,Use a fuse in the main module battery feed, 1 amp per 1000rpm, a 6-8
amp fuse is about right. Run the wires leading to a Magnetic pick up
distributor alway from the Spark Boxes power wires. If all the wires go through
a grommet in the firewall, use another hole and grommet for the Magnetic pick
up wires. If you use the correct ratchet crimp tool, then crimp
fittings are fine. If you want, solder as well but avoid overheating the wire
strands, as they will fail as will poor soldering.
·
9, Make sure the factory type spark boxes earth wire is earthed to
the chassis or a paint/rust free area. Use a “star” washer with teeth for best
contact. Wire the earth only like this if the manufacturer did the same;
otherwise run the earth direct to the battery.
·
10, The two distributor pick up wires (if using a magnetic distributor)
may need reversed if the engine timing is way off or fails to fire. Twist these
two wires together along their lenght (to stop EMI inference) and install them
away from ignition coil or spark plug wires.
·
11, Point type voltage regulators for older generator charging systems
can spike some factory type modules.
·
12, Don’t weld on the car without removing these modules (yes-remove!)
OR unplug the module, distributor and battery at least. If welding on the car,
keep the clip on welding cable close to the work area. The best idea is to
remove the Spark box.
·
13,Booster/jumper cables can also blow aftermarket boxes as will
“Booster starters”, just the same as on some factory cars!
·
14, Do try to run the same companies recommended coil for that
module/box for best results. Often different coils work best in different rpm
ranges, the Spark boxes manufacturer can advise on what coil for your end use.
·
15, If you have a choice, use a cap with brass terminals, they don’t
corrode as fast with ionised air. Drilling a cap with 1/8 holes at rotor level
or picking a cap with a vent and wide spaced terminals will also
help.
·
16,Not all of these CDI boxes run with aftermarket or factory rev
counters, contact the companies or me via this address; avocalea@xtra.co.nz.co
·
17, Some aftermarket boxes will not run correctly with factory fuel
injection systems like on Rover V8’s, an adaptor from the ignition boxes
companies will correct this in most cases.
·
18,Some hot spark systems run best with an earth wire or a small cable,
running from the engines cylinder head to an earth point. V8’s should have a
cable from head to head then to the chassis, this can improve spark plug performance.
·
19, Relays in your cars wiring can result in 300v to 500v voltage
spikes that will damage sensitive electronics like aftermarket ignition
boxes. Use a Relay that has an internal diode fitted to protect against this,
Hella make several of these.
·
20, Use good quality spiral type coil and spark plug leads. Do NOT
use solid core cables, as these will upset the ignition module as
well as items like rev limiters etc.
NOTE: I have not offered detailed wiring instructions
as these can be found by using:
·
1,The donor cars wiring diagram, (visit a library),
·
2,The aftermarket ignition manufacturers instructions,
·
3,A good auto sparky,
·
4,Google!
·
5,Contact me via avocalea@xtra.co.nz for
non-Japanese wiring as I have some wiring diagrams/tech as well.
Remember it’s
not rocket science! Books for good ignition “How to” tech, (these are the BEST of a few I have brought, I also
recommend Amazon.com).
1. Custom Auto
Electrickery SBN 0 949398357,
Frank “Choco” Munday .
2. How to build High
Performance ignition systems, ISBN 1-884089-72-0
Todd Ryden .
3. Performance ignition
systems ISBN
1-55788-306-8
Christopher Jacobs PH.D, E.E
4. MSD Ignition Wiring
diagrams and tech notes
Your nearest good auto parts shop.
5. Performance electronics
for cars, Jaycar BS-5080
·
Silicone chips Electronic Projects For Cars Vol. II
Available at:https://secure4.vivid-design.com.au/jaycar2005/sitemap.asp
SITES:
·
Good website for explaining different systems :
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Ignition/CDI.html
http://www.centuryperformance.com/default.asp
·
Good site discussing lead types:
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/frequent.htm
·
Websites/ suppliers for kits etc Adapted
Distributors:
Barry in NZ
at http://www.qualityrebuilds.com/
Kit sets
Modules:
https://secure4.vivid-design.com.au/jaycar2005/sitemap.asp
Suppliers of
the Lumenition kits:
Clapham
Industries in NZ, PH (03)366 7472 fax (03) 366 7471
Ignition
Companies:
http://www.classicheads.com/Electronic_Ignition.html
http://www.msdignition.com/1sitemap.htm
(Mr Gasket
owns Mallory, Accel, and Jacobs)
http://www.malloryperformance.com/
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=3
http://www.autopia.co.nz/rite_tec_js.htm
https://secure4.vivid-design.com.au/jaycar2005/sitemap.asp
Barry in NZ offers conversions as well http://www.qualityrebuilds.com/
Disclaimer: The advice and guidelines given in these
articles are given in good faith. The owners and managers of the Galeforce
Zephyr site will take no responsibility for any injuries or
loss sustained while carrying out the described tasks and procedures or
any consequences arising. Please read the Safety First Article